Local Lodi Wines – This month’s picks from the Lodi Wine and Visitor Center
Albariño is the native white wine of the Rías Baixas region of Galicia, Spain, but this grape may have found its ideal second home in Lodi, California – thanks to Markus Bokisch, owner/grower of Lodi’s Bokisch Vineyards. For going on 15 vintages, Bokisch has solidified its reputation as one of California’s leading Albariño specialists. The latest edition, the 2013 Bokisch Terra Alta Vineyard Albariño ($18), is a doppelgänger for the original Spanish versions of the varietal: flowery and honeyed, with peach, citrus/lemon peel notes underlined by a subtle minerality. Perfectly dry, the wine’s medium body comes across as lemony crisp and edgy in its citrus/stone fruit qualities – mouthwatering, delicious.
This, mind you, is not something that happened overnight. Mr. Bokisch freely admits that earlier vintages were a tad on the overripe and alcoholic side; often with a closer resemblance to Viognier than to Albariño. But with experience comes the wisdom of hindsight: viticulture has been meticulously sharpened; and the winemaking approach – now hinged upon development of all the flavor components necessary earlier in the season, when grapes can be picked at lower sugars, with more perfect natural acidity – now yields lighter (alcohols closer to 12%), crisper (acid adjustments no longer necessary), more fragrant expressions of the grape. Bokisch Ranches is now one of Lodi’s major growers; with over 2,500 total acres of vineyards planted to nearly 30 different varieties. Out of this, only 28 acres are planted to Albariño (it’s mainstream grapes like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that butter their bread). But among Bokisch’s 50-plus winery/clients are some of California’s most innovative small wineries; “cool kid” producers such as Forlorn Hope, The Scholium Project, and Odisea/Cochon. In a way, these “outside” wineries are doing as much to bolster the reputation of Bokischgrown grapes as Markus and Liz Bokisch themselves (who utilize less than 1% of what they grow for their own label).
At the same time, Bokisch wines take the backseat to no one’s in terms of pure quality. Earlier this spring, for instance, the 2013 Bokisch Vista Luna Vineyard Garnacha Blanca ($18) was released; a light and lacy dry white wine that out-“cool kids” the best of them: bursting with wildflower, violet and lavender perfumes, framed in the mouth by a bright, zingy sensation of the same. The 2013 Bokisch Vista Luna Vineyard Verdelho ($18) is just as cutting-edge in its lemon/lime varietal character, tinged by tropical flowery, minerally, almost briny nuances; plus leafy green, lemon balm-like suggestions, diving deep into a medium-full body – tasting thick, viscous, yet bracingly light, tart and dry.
Finally, for something completely different, Bokisch released their first-ever Verdejo; a white wine grape once associated only with the Rueda region of Spain. Imagine a vinous version of a fresh, juicy, drippy tangelo. The 2013 Bokisch Clay Station Vineyard Verdejo ($18) is that and more: its orange blossom/tangerine fruit qualities laced with the lightest green leafiness; and a lightly tart, easy-going medium body tasting fleshy and toothsome with refreshing, orange peel sensations. Oh, what lovely summer sippers! Randy Caparoso is the multi-award winning sommelier/restaurateur and longtime wine journalist who also pens the blog for the Lodi Winegrape Commission’s lodiwine.com.