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San Joaquin Magazine, The Magazine of the Central Valley.  Stockton, Tracy, Lodi, Manteca, Lathrop.
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Lodi’s Mexican Revolucion

by LAUREN LABELLE

In San Joaquin, Mexican food is king. But the winds are changing on the Lodi Mexican cuisine scene, and a new regime is taking root. Javier Del Castillo has started the revolution, or rather Revolucion 1910, his authentic Mexican restaurant that is quickly becoming a local favorite.

Unlike the countless Mexican restaurants in the area that serve what’s referred to as traditional burritos and enchiladas, Revolucion is much stricter with its definition of the word “tradition.” With recipes passed down through generations, and the use of the ancient cooking style of the Mayans and Aztecs, history lends weight to Del Castillo’s belief in using fresh ingredients and only serving entrees that originated in Mexico. Patrons looking for overstuffed burritos or ingredients that come out of cans will not find it at this intimate eatery. Instead, they’ll be surprised to find a lively menu full of small plate entrees designed to bring out the best in fresh Mexican flavor.

Chef Jose ‘Sigi’ Lopez is familiar with the ingredients it takes to create an authentic menu, as he has been working with Mexican cuisine since he was a boy, helping out in his mother’s restaurant in Mexico. Creating simple meals with fresh ingredients is the kitchen’s main focus. The corn tortillas served exclusively at Revolucion are all homemade, as are the sauces and vinaigrettes which are tailored specifically to each entree. Chili peppers are used in most dishes for their flavor rather than spice, which is a refreshing technique for patrons who prefer to enjoy the delicate taste of the dish rather than merely survive it.

The main dining room is cozy, seating around fifty people at a time, with a heated patio and bar offering lively options to grab a cocktail before dinner. With a long communal table in the center, the restaurant encourages a feeling of camaraderie among guests. Del Castillo himself shakes patron’s hands as they leave, and checks in tableside during dinner to chat and ensure everyone is having a pleasurable experience.

Dinner at Revolucion kicks off with complimentary spiced rice, beans, and corn tortillas. Diners should be careful not to fill up on appetizers, so they don’t miss out on inventive entrees such as Tacos Al Pastor that consist of Adobo marinated pork served with grilled pineapple and green apple-mango salsa verde, or Chile Relleno Con Huitlacoche made with poblano chiles stuffed with huitlacoche (a Mexican truffle) and Mexican Oaxaca cheese (pictured TK). Upscale staples like the Mole Poblana with spices, chiles, nuts, and chocolate in a rich sauce served over chicken are not to be missed. Dessert is also a must at the restaurant, especially the moist tres leches cake which is made with condensed, whole, and low-fat milk, and takes a five-day process to perfect.

No Mexican feast would be complete without margaritas, which are made here from only the highest quality tequilas from agave nectar, and lime juice squeezed fresh for each drink. The margarita list has nine custom selections including the Mamacita, a blackberry margarita that features actual chunks of the muddled berry floating in the icy glass. Tequila flights that feature three half-ounce samples of their gourmet tequilas are available as well as specialty cocktails. If a low-key evening is more the plan, the spirits menu features Lodi wines accompanied by an extensive Mexican beer selection.

Wednesday nights feature live music, creating even more of a buzz for the new Lodi restaurant, and on weekends Revolucion opens its doors for brunch. Not veering from what it does best, the eatery serves a selection of fresh egg and meat plates off the menu all done in Mexican style. Happily, there are almost as many special morning alcohol concoctions on the menu as there are entrees.

Revolucion 1910 has quite simply changed San Joaquin’s perspective of Mexican food. And we think change is a very good thing.

For more information: Revolucion 1910, 307 S. Lower Sacramento Rd. Ste. D, Lodi, (209) 334-1519, www.revolucion1910lodi.com



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